The Sahara Desert was not what we imagined – a night in Erg Chebbi, Morocco

Before coming to Morocco, our idea of the Sahara Desert was simple – endless sand dunes stretching forever in every direction.

Reality turned out to be quite different.

The Moroccan Sahara is huge, but most of it is actually rocky desert – vast stone plains called hamada. The famous sand dunes appear only in a few places, and one of the most well known is Erg Chebbi near the small desert town of Merzouga.

And this is where we spent our first night in the sand.

Learning how to drive in the dunes

Even with a 4×4 van, driving in sand for the first time felt a bit intimidating. So before heading into the dunes on our own, we hired a local guide for a small fee.

He drove ahead of us and showed us the basics of navigating the dunes of Erg Chebbi – how to keep momentum, where to drive and which areas to avoid.

At the same time, he took us to a small Berber village on the edge of the desert. There we were welcomed with sweet mint tea – often jokingly called “Berber whisky.”

We sat together, drank tea and listened to stories about life next to the desert.

It was a perfect introduction to this landscape.

Our house in the middle of the desert

After that short lesson, we felt confident enough to drive into the dunes ourselves.

Soon we were parked right in the middle of the sand.

And that feeling was almost surreal.

Our small home on wheels standing alone between the dunes, while camels slowly walked past in the distance during sunset.

Watching the sun disappear behind the dunes from the door of our van was one of those moments that feels almost unreal.

A very special playground

For our son Krists, the desert quickly turned into the best playground imaginable.

He spent hours climbing the dunes and sliding down them with his bodyboard like a sand sled.

Up the dune.

Slide down.

Repeat.

The desert at night

That night the desert was incredibly calm.

There was only a light breeze and a deep silence that you rarely experience anywhere else.

And the sky…

Without any cities nearby, the stars above the Sahara looked almost unreal. The Milky Way was clearly visible and the whole sky felt alive.

It was one of those moments where you simply step outside, look up, and forget everything else.

Morning in the dunes

The morning was just as beautiful.

Absolute silence. Soft light over the dunes. And that strange peaceful feeling that only the desert seems to have.

Watching the sunrise over Erg Chebbi while standing barefoot in the sand is something we will probably never forget.

Our idea of the desert changed

Before coming here, we imagined the Sahara as endless sand.

But Morocco’s desert landscapes are much more diverse than that. Most of the region consists of rocky desert plains, while the large sand dunes appear only in a few areas like Erg Chebbi near Merzouga or Erg Chigaga further west.

But standing in those dunes, watching camels walk past your camper van at sunset, it definitely feels like the Sahara everyone dreams about.

And spending a night there in our little home on wheels made it even more special.

Sahara dunes in Morocco – Quick facts

Morocco has a huge desert area, but the large sand dunes only appear in a few places. The two most famous dune regions are Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga.

Erg Chebbi

Location: near Merzouga in southeastern Morocco

Type of desert: sand dune sea (erg)

Highest dunes: around 150 meters

Access: relatively easy – reachable by road and 4×4 tracks

Atmosphere: more popular and accessible, with desert camps and visitors

Erg Chigaga

Location: south of M’Hamid in southern Morocco

Type of desert: large sand dune field

Highest dunes: around 300 meters

Access: remote – usually reachable only by 4×4 vehicles or guided tours

Atmosphere: much wilder and less visited than Erg Chebbi

If you plan to visit Erg Chebbi

Driving into the dunes near Merzouga is possible with a proper 4×4 vehicle, but if it’s your first time driving in sand, taking a local guide for the first drive can be a very good idea.

That short introduction helped us understand how to move through the dunes without getting stuck.

To make the most of your trip and avoid common pitfalls, read my guide on mistakes tourists make in Morocco before you head into the dunes.